How to Wear the Oversized Suit Trend (and Make It Flattering for Every Body)
The oversized suit is having a major moment right now — it’s all over the runways in both women’s suits and, more recently, men’s suits too. The ’90s oversized suit look has made a serious comeback, and while it looks effortlessly cool on tall, slender models, let’s be honest — oversized doesn’t flatter everyone right out of the box.
But don’t worry — I’ve got some tried-and-true ideas on how real women (and men!) of all shapes and heights can pull off this trend and still look sleek, balanced, and confident. And how going custom for your oversized suit will help you achieve this look while maintaining true to your proportions.
1. Balance the Proportions
If you’re new to trying the oversized suit, start by balancing an oversized blazer jacket with slimmer pants. I don’t mean super-skinny or tapered — go for a straight leg. The trick is the balance so you can really emphasize the oversized blazer but not feel like you are being swallowed up by fabric.
Another way to create an oversized look is in the pants, and the key is the length: make the pants long enough that they break slightly over your shoes. Avoid cropped styles or anything that cuts off above the ankle; that can throw off the proportions of a looser pant. Bonus points if you do a double pleated trouser. With these pants I might wear a more tailored or even cropped jacket to ease into the oversized suit vibe.
2. The Key for Petite and Average Heights
If you’re petite or average height, the key to wearing a women’s oversized pantsuit style is all about structure and proportion. Try a jacket with slightly wider shoulders and lower armholes and bigger sleeves for that relaxed feel, but keep the length in check. My rule of thumb: your jacket should hit around crotch level — long enough to feel modern, but not so long that it overwhelms your frame. A subtle curve at the waist can also make a world of difference for shorter women, keeping the look flattering without losing that cool, slouchy vibe.
3. Want a Boxier Look? Go slightly Cropped
If you’re going for a mens oversized suit or super boxy oversized pinstripe suit vibe, keep the jacket slightly cropped, and looser at the waist. A shorter, boxier jacket instantly looks more intentional and stylish — it’s less “borrowed from your dad” and more “chic and modern.” If you are going this direction, I would make sure the shoulders fit well to your shoulders, meaning they are not TOO wide, we don’t want you to actually emulate a box.
4. Vintage + Tailoring = Perfect Fit
Here’s my favorite hack: if you want an authentic 90s oversized suit, look for a vintage men’s oversized suit jacket. Find one that fits your shoulders well (this part is crucial!) and then invest in a good tailor. Ask them to take in the waist, adjust the sleeve length, and shorten the jacket so it complements your proportions.
Remember, the key detail that makes or breaks this look is the jacket length. Too long, and it swallows you; just right, and you’ll look perfectly polished in your oversized pantsuit.
Whether you’re rocking an oversized womens suit for work or channeling that effortless oversized mens suit street-style energy, the secret is balance. Play with proportions, pay attention to jacket length, and don’t be afraid of a good tailor — it’s the easiest way to make a trend truly your own.
5. Don’t Forget Oversized Coats
The oversized trend doesn’t stop with suits — it’s huge in outerwear too. Oversized coats, whether it’s a pea coat, a short boxy coat, or a long overcoat, can add instant sophistication to any outfit.
If you’re tall, lean into those long, dramatic silhouettes — think floor-grazing wool coats that move with you. For petite or average-height women or men, go for an oversized pea coat or mid-length style that hits just above the knee. It gives you that roomy, layered feel without drowning your frame.
The same proportion rules apply: keep your coat shoulders structured, make sure the sleeves don’t hang too long, and if the body feels too bulky, belt it! A defined waist can transform an oversized coat from shapeless to effortlessly chic.
Whether it’s a mens oversized coat or a women’s oversized pea coat, the look is timeless, practical, and pairs beautifully with both tailored and relaxed pieces — including your favorite oversized suit underneath.
